Monday, September 5, 2011

Wedding Dress pt 2 - The plan

DD is wheeling her way back to school, but we got a great fitting in before she left.

Here is the inspiration dress:

Here is the base pattern we are using to recreate this look:

 And here are the fabrics:

The lace is shown over red for clarity. It's an ivory color and the bridal satin is champagne. Her colors are red, black and gold. I know that sounds odd, but she has this "look" in mind and assures me it won't look like a high school graduation.

The lace is rayon from Nancy's Sewing Basket in Seattle. When we went looking for lace, I tried to steer her towards Chantilly lace. Nancy's has some breathtaking laces. They are expensive, but I was prepared to plunk down a sizable sum. The only one she liked didn't have enough yardage and it wasn't reorderable. So we crossed the aisle to the special occassions fabrics to pick up the bolt of champagne bridal satin and she spotted this lace on a bolt. She nearly squealed, she was so excited. Myself? I was stunned. This was $18 a yard. I had been prepared to pay between $90 -  $150 a yard.

This should be pretty easy to work with except for one thing. The edge. This is NOT chantilly lace. I can't just trim the edge off and then use it to trim raw edges. I am going to have to use the flexible fray check along the entire selvage before I trim it off. I experimented with about  4 inches and this will work without being stiff. That is a load off of my mind.

There will be a few alterations required to make NL6401 look like the inspiration dress.

There will be a fitted bodice with spaghetti straps under the lace. I will have to add godets to the skirt to give it the "trumpet" effect. I've got a running list of the required alterations and tested them out by using what I thought was a pretty clever method.

First, I copied the line drawing of the pattern pieces from the instruction sheet. I blew them up about 600%. Then I applied what I thought needed to be done to these pieces, cut them out and stitched out a mock up. With a couple of changes, I got the thumbs up from the Pixie. She wanted less train and much to my surprise, wanted the cap sleeve eliminated.

Today, we fit the "underbodice". The only alteration required is a minor one: the front needs 5/8" more length. She is rather large busted, so I am taking special care to make sure this can be worn braless. I'll be inserting an underwire as well as boning in the side seams and the "v" in the front. I haven't used spiral steel boning in AGES, so I am happy for a chance to use these techniques again.

That's if for today! I'm off to mark the darts and add the length to the muslin and start the modified muslin construction, complete with boning and underwire. She'll be back at Thanksgiving for her next fitting and I'd like to have this and the skirt with godets ready for a fit check before cutting into the fashion fabric. The goal is to be ready for beading by Christmas break. If I finish early, I plan on making her going away dress. She'd like the same lace over red in a simple sheath. After the gown, that will be a SNAP!


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