Sunday, January 30, 2011

Verona - (Hem + Buttons) = Done for Now

Sewing Workshop’s Verona Jacket:

Shell: Seaglass Green and Blue Silk Herringbone Suiting from FabricMart

Contrasting Collar and Pocket Bands: Latte Cotton Featherwale Corduroy from stash

Lining: Floral Poly “Silky” from JoAnn Fabrics

I am going to hold off on the buttons until I decide what I want to do for buttonholes. I'm leaving the hem open for the same reason, as I might need to get in between the shell and the lining, depending on what I end up doing. I feel like I want to do something “special”, but I don’t want to totally mess up what I’ve done so far.

This is also not something I can wear now with my recent weight gain. So it is part of the fall wardrobe I am sewing as I know I will be trimmed back to my preferred weight by then. As slowly as I sew, Fall is a good goal.

What I did:

Cut Size Medium of the long coat based on trying on samples at 2010 Puyallup Sew Expo prior to the weight gain. Subtracted 6 inches from the length.

I followed the pattern instructions exclusively until applying the facing to the lining. At the suggestion of Terry K, I visited and followed Martha’s process of clipping and joining the two pieces. I am not sure I would do this again with something as “free spirited” as the floral poly lining. While I could join and stitch the curves, there was enough distortion to the poly that I ended up with some bulges in the floral poly. I think with a more stable lining, it would be the way to go. If I were to do this over, I would starch the heck out of the poly first. And breathe slower.

I had a couple of firsts with this project. Sort of firsts, considering I’ve done them before, just not in the last 20+ years, so it may as well be the first time!

  • Sewing on a silky. I debated with entitling this post “I Hate Silkys” while initially working on the fabric. Laying it out wasn’t difficult as I was careful and the Swedish Tracing paper kind of “gripped” the fabric. The fraying, however, was terrible. It was not as bad as silk dupioni, but it was close. I found that the less I handled it, the better. I finished every seam by stitching parallel rows about 1/8” apart, then trimming and zig-zagging.
  • Using my Point Presser/Clapper. WOW! What a difference this made! I can’t believe how much better the collar came out with so much less fiddling!
  • I made my own shoulder pads using instructions from Gwen. Thanks to her for her generosity!
  • I hand basted everything but the long straight seams. It took time, but it saved time. I only had to unstitch one small area where I caught a layer that wasn’t part of the seam. No sleeves going in backwards, which is my trademark. 
Special thanks to the fly for holding the jacket open so I could get a good picture of the lining!

Off to plan jacket two.

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